Texture Diversity: Celebrating the Beauty of All Textured Hair Types

The rich diversity of hair is a beautiful and diverse spectrum of curl patterns, coils, and waves. It is a celebration of our unique identities and cultural heritage. However, for many years, textured hair has been underrepresented and misunderstood in the beauty industry.

In recent years, there has been a growing movement to embrace textured hair in all its forms. This movement has been fuelled by social media, natural hair influencers, and beauty brands that are committed to creating inclusive products and services.

The rich diversity of textured hair

Textured hair can be classified into four main types: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Each type of hair has its own unique needs and characteristics.

  • Straight hair is the most common hair type. It has a smooth, cylindrical shape and tends to lay flat against the head.
  • Wavy hair has a slight S-shaped curl pattern. It can be fine or coarse, and it often has a lot of volume.
  • Curly hair has a more defined S-shaped curl pattern. It can be loose or tight, and it can be fine or coarse.
  • Coily hair has a zigzag or spring-like curl pattern. It is the most textured type of hair, and it is often the driest.

Within each of these main types, there are countless variations of curl pattern, density, porosity, and width. This diversity makes textured hair truly unique and beautiful.

Products that cater to various needs

The beauty industry is increasingly recognising the importance of catering to the diverse needs of textured hair. But there is still a limited range of products available that are specifically designed for curly, coily, and wavy hair.

Some of the most important factors to consider when choosing products for textured hair is to look for products that protect, repair, hydrate and restore textured hair.

  • Protect: Textured hair requires protection from various stressors, including environmental factors, heat styling, mechanical damage, and UV. When selecting hair care products, it is important to products that offers protection. These products often contain UV filters, antioxidants, and heat protectants to shield the hair from the harmful effects of UV rays, pollution, and styling tools. Protective products serve as a barrier, preserving the hair’s health and preventing future damage.
  • Hydrate: Hydration is paramount for textured hair types, as they tend to be more susceptible to dryness and dehydration. Ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, and hyaluronic acid, can lock in moisture, maintain optimal moisture levels, and prevent excessive dryness. Hydrating products ensure that the hair remains soft, manageable, and well-moisturised.
  • Repair: Textured hair is often more prone to damage due to its unique structure and the potential for curl patterns to become compromised. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose products that prioritise repair. Look for hair care products containing ingredients that reduce split ends and restore the overall integrity of the hair. Repairing products work to strengthen the hair, making it more resilient against daily wear and tear.
  • Restore: Textured hair can experience moisture loss, resulting in dryness, frizz, and a loss of natural shine. To address this, opt for products that focus on restoration. Ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, and glycerin, which help replenish lost moisture, improve elasticity, and bring back the hair’s natural lustre. Restorative products work to revitalise the hair, leaving it soft, supple, and beautifully rejuvenated.

Understanding the needs and requirements of textured hair will enable consumers to select the products that are right for them.

Exploring the Use of Natural Ingredients for the Protection of Textured Hair

Introduction

Backstory of Textured Hair

Human hair, a significant skin appendage, plays a crucial role in appearance, thermoregulation, sensory input, and barrier protection [1]. Hair follicles continually regenerate throughout life, producing hair shafts primarily composed of keratins—proteins with a relatively high cysteine content. These cysteine residues form disulfide and polysulfide bonds, contributing to the hair fibre's mechanical strength and antioxidant capacity [2,3]. There are seventeen keratin subtypes varying by molecular weight, isoelectric point, and their location within the hair shaft. The shape of hair—whether straight or curly—is influenced by the geometric and molecular effects of keratins. Straight hair exhibits an even distribution, while curly hair shows asymmetric differentiation of the precortex [4]. The elasticity and strength of textured hair are closely associated with disulfide bonds, which serve as cross-linking structures that support fibre shape and are essential for hair treatments involving the transient breaking and reformation of these bonds. The structure of textured hair is further defined by the formation and arrangement of keratins and water-soluble keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) that contribute to the hair's main compartments: the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. Additionally, lipids such as 18-methyl eicosanoid acid (18-MEA) protect against mechanical and chemical stress and vary among different ethnic hair types [5].

The Problem: Textured Hair and UVR Damage

There is a growing need for specialised hair care products designed specifically for textured hair, particularly those that offer protection against ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Textured hair accounts for 70% of the world’s population, with prevalence varying by skin ethnicity—ranging from 40% for wavy hair to 12% for curly types in European and Asian populations and up to 95% for curly types in African populations [5]. This hair type has distinct structural characteristics that make it more vulnerable to environmental stressors like UVR, which primarily impacts the cuticle and hair surfaces by reducing lipid content and tensile strength [6]. Curly hair is especially prone to frizz and dryness, while coily or kinky hair types, particularly of African origin, are more susceptible to brittleness and breakage due to lower tensile strength [7,8]. For instance, the relatively low fibrous protein content in African hair may contribute to its increased susceptibility to breakage [9]. Moreover, UV exposure can intensify hair bleaching through oxidation and loss of melanin’s protective function in the cortex, while common hair styling practices like chemical relaxation and the use of mechanical or thermal tools can further exacerbate these issues [10]. This vulnerability is compounded by the fact that a significant portion of the global population with textured hair resides in regions with high UV indices, reaching values of ~10 in West Africa, ~9 in South Asia, and up to 15 in South Africa [11–12]. These conditions increase the risk of hair fibre damage, including thinning, breakage, and colour degradation, underscoring the importance of targeted solutions for textured hair.

The Solution: Personalised Products for Textured Hair

As a result, there is a growing trend in global research and the industry market towards developing personalised, hair-protective products with a stronger focus on the unique needs of textured hair [13,14]. Conditioning products are designed with various ingredients, such as natural or synthetic polymers, oils, and proteins, to meet the needs of different hair types by restoring moisture, strengthening the cuticle, and improving overall hair structure. There is also high demand for next-generation hair care products that use bioactive compounds with predicted or proven activity towards the specific requirements of different hair types [9,14]. Creating these products involves advanced technologies to identify and test active ingredients, ensuring they effectively address the unique physical and biochemical properties of hair.

The Solution: Novel Conditioner

This present study investigated the protective effect of a novel conditioner against the hair damage caused by UVR. The conditioner has been formulated with natural active ingredients—mangiferin, ferulic acid, and naringin—selected for their UV-absorbing and antioxidative properties. The study provides fascinating insight and consistent evidence that curly hair shafts are more sensitive to UVR damage than straight hair shafts. In particular, the alterations to textured hair by UVR appeared to be associated chiefly with changes to the hair surface, permeability and keratin organisation. Moreover, pre-treatment of the hair with conditioner significantly reduced these damaging effects. These results show that these ingredients protect textured hair from damage. Furthermore, consumers, particularly those with textured hair, should be aware of and select ingredients compatible with their specific hair type.

Materials and Methods

The study investigated the effects of UV radiation on hair and the protective properties of the conditioner at structural and molecular levels. UV absorption and Antioxidant capacity was evaluated for the bioactive compounds (Mangiferin, ferulic acid, and naringin) and conditioner. Hair samples of South American origin were treated with the conditioner and exposed to UV radiation. and analyzed for damage using Rhodamine B dye. Various techniques such as light and fluorescence microscopy, ATR-FTIR, and Scanning Electron Microscopy were used to assess molecular changes in hair thickness, darkness, and keratin structure.

Findings

Protective Effects of the Conditioner on the Structure of Straight and Curly Hair

UV Absorbance and Antioxidant Capacity

Results showed that mangiferin had the most potent UV-absorbing properties covering UVC, UVB and UVA. While ferulic acid and naringin covered the UVC-UVB ranges (Figure 1a). All three demonstrated strong antioxidant potential, with mangiferin having the highest total antioxidant capacity (TAC), followed by ferulic acid and naringin (Figure 1b). When blended in a conditioner, the formulation's absorbance profile covered UVC, UVB, and UVA (Figure 2a). This suggests that the bioactive compounds individually and, in the conditioner, effectively protected hair from oxidative damage caused by UVR. After UV exposure, the antioxidant capacity of both straight and curly hair remained unchanged. However, pre-treatment with the conditioner increased the antioxidant capacity in both hair types, and this effect was more pronounced after exposure of curly hair to UVR (Figure 2b).

Picture 1 Picture 2

Hair Thickness and Darkness

Hair fibre thickness was significantly reduced by UV exposure, with curly hair being more affected than straight hair, indicating its greater sensitivity to UV damage. Pre-treatment with the conditioner slightly increased hair thickness and provided partial protection against UV-induced thinning for both hair types (Figure 3a). UVR also caused noticeable hair bleaching, particularly in curly hair. Pre-treatment with conditioner preserved hair darkness in both hair types (Figure 3b). Penetration of the Rhodamine B dye was used to assess the degree of damage. Curly hair showed an increased permeability to the dye after UV exposure, indicating higher damage than straight hair. The conditioner effectively reduced dye uptake, demonstrating its protective effect on the structural integrity of hair fibres (Figure 4 a,b).

Picture 3 Picture 4

Molecular Level Differences between Straight and Textured Hair

To understand molecular changes, the spectral absorbance of keratin extracts from control and UVR-treated straight and curly hair —with and without conditioner pre-treatment—- was analysed. In the control condition, both hair types showed similar absorbance peaks, indicating intact keratin structures. UV exposure significantly reduced keratin absorbance, especially in curly hair, reflecting greater structural damage. Pre-treatment with the conditioner before UVR protected keratin structure, particularly for textured hair. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy confirmed this, showing that UV exposure disrupted key keratin bonds, particularly in curly hair, while the conditioner restored the absorbance patterns. This suggests that the protective effects occurred on a molecular level. SEM images further demonstrated significant surface damage and thinning in UV-exposed curly hair, while the conditioner protected hair structure and fibre volume.

So, why choose this Layla & Kays conditioner?

This report highlights a novel hair conditioner formulated with a trio of natural compounds: mangiferin, ferulic acid, and naringin. What distinguishes this formulation from others is its exceptional ability to protect hair from UV damage on a structural and molecular level. The conditioner's natural compounds deliver broad-spectrum UV defence and high antioxidant capacity, shielding hair from oxidative stress. This prevents thinning and bleaching while preserving hair's natural strength and colour. Importantly, it protects the keratin structure at a molecular level. This feature is particularly beneficial for curly hair, which is inherently more susceptible to UV damage. This conditioner delivers targeted and effective care, making it an ideal solution for those seeking to safeguard and enhance their hair's health against environmental stressors.

References

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  3. Hirai, T.; Ikeda-Imafuku, M.; Tasaka, N.; Chuang, V.T.C.; Xian, M.; Ishida, T.; Akaike, T.; Ishima, Y. Human hair keratin responds to oxidative stress via reactive sulfur and supersulfides. Adv. Redox Res. 2024, 10, 100091. [Link]
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